How To Clean My Glenfield 22 Rifle

Thread Status:: Not open for further replies.

I have a Marlin 60

It's a .22 Long Burglarize semi-automatic (chosen self-loading by Marlin) burglarize. Information technology has the tubular mag underneath the butt.

I was just curious how I should get about cleaning this thing. I can take it apart, off of the wooden stock, simply the butt and entire activeness, etc. all come off in 1 slice. Gunk seems to build up all inside, everywhere, and I tin't actually think of a fashion to clean this all out. It looks a bit complex to actually take all the way apart.

Is in that location some way to dunk the whole assembly in something, that would brand it all clean? I have cleaned information technology equally much as I could with Breakfree CLP, and it seems to have smoothed information technology up a niggling bit, but when I rack the slide area, information technology yet feels a little gritty.

Give thanks you very much.
-Plink-
As a general rule I don't do much to these. OKay the truth is I don't brand a big bargain out of overcleaning anything...real real rare for me clean bores.
I use pipe cleaners, long wooden Q-tips and toothbrushes to clean. I focus on Sleeping accommodation, and extraction. I don't do the bore unless I take exposed to rain, sleet mud or snow. Then I only run a patch through to remoove moisture.

The POA/POI can alter if constantly removed from stock. I protect the metallic surrounded past the stock with RIG or a Quality Canuba Car Wax.

IF on those rare occasisons ( like find one used) I volition remove from the stock, Spray information technology downwards with CRC Ability Lube, and hit with air compressor . The small cans of compressed air will work.

CRC Brakleen volition piece of work. I Just think folks overuse the stuff. There may exist some plastic in the newer models that might not like Spray degreasers and such. So I'd bank check commencement.

Actually - The last ane I took off the stock I squirted downward with Simple Green, ,pipe cleaned, toothbrushed, Squirted it downwards with more SG and and so hosed with HOT Water, air dried and lightly lubed. Couple of these were in grungy shape from storage.

I used the Super Oil fabricated by Gunk to lube...car oil $1.19 for 4 oz... O r the CRC PowerLube ...I have no idea how many rounds I shot in that gun, before I gave it away...Been years since taken off the stock, it was fine -RIG protected it. I don't recal ever cleaning the diameter...ever...
Thanks. It's a little grungy underneath the stock. If I can spray information technology with Elementary Green, toothbrush, and utilise hot h2o, that should exist merely fine. I just didn't desire to damage anything with water.
Information technology's actually fairly quondam. It looks similar the 1 in the picture, merely it's checkered in the front and rear grip. I've had information technology for a few years, it but never got that much use. I figured now that I have started shooting information technology once again, I should start thinking well-nigh what to practice to keep information technology clean. I'one thousand not likewise worried about information technology, equally information technology was kind of a cheap impulse buy, to have some fun with.

Thanks once again. Any other opinions and tips are still welcome.

-Plink-
Plink ... my M60 is about my funnest .22 rifle!
When stripping (after woodwork off) ... take out slide (after removing bolt ''handle'') .... and then remove trigger grouping (push button that rear plastic split pin thru), simply keep hammer cocked. In that location is a lot of pulverisation crud builds up and I use whatsoever works! Q Tips, tweazers with patch damped with #9 ... toothpics ... anything to shift that mess! Perchance even carb cleaner and when finished .... just a merest smidgeon of Militech on main areas of motion .. VERY minimal.

Mine does need an occasional clean because also much crud - and first circular will sometimes FTE and then a misfeed.
That'due south what I got! Except for the telescopic. I really have a lot of fun with this gun. It's very accurate, and a blast to shoot.
How do I get about removing the bolt "handle"?

Thanks for the other tips. I'll give it a look.
Give Jagermeister in the other Forum a shout. I betcha he has take down instructions.
Some ammo produces more than grime than others. The gun will tell you what it does an does not like as far as accuracy, reliability and crud build up.

Try Fed buld pks.
Beyond the many .22 firearms I've endemic and shot - the Win X22lr is the most reliable, accurate and cleanest shooting.

CCI is another proficient pick, just not readily avail here.
I have e'er used Winchester X .22 long rifle in it. It actually hasn't seen that much utilize. A few hundred I would imagine. It has Ever been extremely authentic, and I have never had a malfunction of any kind.
Plink ..... the cleaning of mine is very infrequent - as a result I do non have the clearest manner to describe the interruption down. It's one of things now where .... when I come to practice it, the method sorta ''seeps back''.
However ... the bolt handle ..... or if you, slide handle .... is sorta ''U'' shaped where it'due south hidden. I really need to dig out the manual and browse a diag' ... tho you should take that??

If prob'south nonetheless later . I'll do a strip on mine (needs it!!) and fill you in in more detail. Gotta dash.......
Thanks p95. I actually don't have anything for this gun. Manual etc. Maybe I tin find it on the Marlin website.
Thanks again.
Most of the time I just utilise FP-10 and a .22 cal diameter serpent -- along with some Q-tips and tooth brush on it. This is one of those circumstances where "less is more".
YMMV
Plink -- there should be some info somewhere - maybe a search at http://rimfirecentral.com/ might aid.
I will tho later in 24-hour interval if time allows, requite my action the clean it deserves .. and in one case refreshed on sequence will come back and post - even if you are then sorted out. All the same might be useful for someone anyways.
Here'due south what I do to my Model 60.
Most times, afterward shooting, I just run a bore snake through the bore 3 times. (Squirt a little G-96 or CLP on the bore snake.

Squirt a little G-96 or CLP on a rag or large patch and clean out the chamber.

And then, every 3-4 shootings, I exercise a more detailed strip.

-Stock off
-Separate the trigger group from the receiver.
-Remove the commodities.
-Clean the bold real well.
-Hose down the trigger grouping with gunscrubber or carb cleaner. Then spray with CLP/G-96 to lube over again.
-Reassemble

I demand the instructions in the manual to get the commodities out. And it is a littel tricky. I recommend getting a manual from Marlin. It may exist a free online download? If non, then write, call, or east-postal service them and get one.
Well, I only use a boresnake on mine. I am waiting for 1000 rounds before I take it all apart. It's but at 600 or then. It doesn't go as much attention as it should.
I usually have it down to the butt/receiver, stock, bolt, bolt spring/rod, bolt handle, and activeness.
For the activeness, one thing I've institute to be dang useful is "electronics duster" cans. I basically scrub everything I can with Hoppe's and a toothbrush, then spray bore cleaner into every crevice. Last, I use a tin of duster to boom all the grit out. Works fine for me.
Thanks anybody for all these tips. I will definitely be trying a couple.
Just wanted to add, I shot information technology today a bit. This thing continues to be then accurate, information technology blows my mind. I don't have a scope on it, and so I am just using stock sights. There was an orangish clay disc affair (for trap shooting) very far abroad (for me anyway)... Maybe like 75 yards or so. I looked at my friend, and said, "watch this, I'thousand gonna striking it". I seriously expected to take to take 5-10 shots or and then before I tagged information technology. Kickoff SHOT. I amazed myself, and my friend couldn't believe it. I actually beloved this gun! Even though it feels like shooting a pellet gun...
Marlin 60 - x/22 ... whatever i's choice . these rifles tin truly be tack drivers.
And the resultant smile is wide - very broad!

I may strip mine tomorrow if time . and as I said . post further info in example it helps.
plinkerton ....... I have posted a thread on this takedown .... Here .
Yous may well exist OK on this at present but thought it might help someone else too.
i have a marlin glenfield threescore, but pics i come across in this spider web site testify dissimilar assebly parts,parts that are not on my marlin ,looks like some kind of a safty ,and there is also a extra leap that i dont have on . i took the assebly flate completly autonomously, ishould have video tsped it ,didnt like dumb ass. i need really good pics with skillful lighting on how to assemble information technology propely, shooting is my thearpy
.... parts that are not on my marlin ....
I had a Marlin Glenfield 99G (an early version of the Model 60)
from 1965 to 1972, and have 1 from the early 80s and
was given a new M60 a few years ago.

The Marlin 60 has gradually changed over the years.

Originally, the trigger group was held to the receiver
by two screws at the front, and a postal service and screw at the rear.
Currently, the trigger group hooks over two pins at
the front end, and is held by a sliding nylon post at the rear.
This is just as secure every bit the old method, but a lot
quicker for disassembly.

Originally, the ejector was part of the left one-half of the
feed throat (a chrome plated alloy block that incorporates
the feed lips of the magazine). When that ejector wore
down, you needed a new feed throat.
Currently, the ejector is an extension of the cartridge
lifter bound, and is a lot more durable.

As well, the current feed throat and receiver accept clearances
to allow space for grime from firing to build upwards earlier
cleaning becomes necessary. The bearing surfaces for
the bolt yet have tight tolerances.

The clearance cuts in the breechface of barrel to adapt
the extractors on the boltface are wider, which likewise allows
clearance for grime build up before cleaning becomes necessary.

The older M60s exercise not accept anyway to lock the bolt dorsum.
Then the commodities handle was modified so it can exist pulled back
then pushed in to lock the bolt open. I do routine cleaning
with Hoppes #9, Qtip, toothbrush and bamboo scewer with
the bolt locked open (full disassembly perhaps once a year).

The current models accept a last-shot hold-open device
with a lever that protrudes from the front of the
triger guard. This helps prevent snapping on an empty
sleeping room, and can exist manually engaged.

The Gun Parts Corp. (Numrich) has a couple of pages on the
Marlin Model 60 variations and their parts. (Happily, most parts
are interchangeable and those that are not can be retrofitted.)
Go to the source:
Here's a link to Marlin'south website, owner'southward manuals page. Just pick your specific Model 60 and download.

http://world wide web.marlinfirearms.com/customersupport/manuals.aspx
yep, p95 has the best have down pics. in that location was once a dude somewhere, that hac complete, precise, and articulate pics, but like that, but of taking autonomously the activeness equally well. wish I knew where those instr/pics were now.
KHAN Member

Joined:

May 1, 2007

Messages:

43
Here is ane of the all-time websites I know for breaking downwards your Marlin 60.
http://world wide web.castbullet.com/misc/m60.htm
I take the rifle out of the stock and hose the whole affair downward with PowderBlast....I love that orange smell.
Hit any areas yous can with q-tips.

Yank a bore serpent thru the butt.

Assemble with some low-cal oil on moving parts.

Shoot till it starts failing alot and echo.